Key generator sound Activated Switch -Use Arduino for Projects

Crack game call of juarez gunslinger https://sa-mebel-ekanom.ru/forum/?download=6428. Pasanga 2 review boss key s. Download PowerDesk 9 Activated crack direct download link (click and install). The activation of this toggle switch will then reverse the direction of the servo making the arm swing back.

What Is Causing Your Speakers to Pop and Crackle?

Utilizing this basic sound activated switch design, toggling a system by sound pulse could be very effective, not. It can be used to turn an appliance ON/OFF working on AC/DC. Zombie killer squad hacked apk s. Make a motion activated wreath with Arduino and MP3 player.


Arduino - How to make my sound reactive LEDs with Tip31C

The circuit includes a combination of transistors, diodes, resistors, capacitors, LEDs and an Electret microphone. Odnoklassniki ok hack v 1.0 games. We are going to use a MIC and Uno to sense the sound and trigger a response. Wilflex easyart 2 keygen.

Arduino Clap Switch Project for Beginners

Club penguin coin hack. Vibrations in the ground using an accelerometer? Find great deals on eBay for sound activated switch.


How to Control Lights with Your Voice Using an Arduino

The preamplifier circuitry connected to the microphone converts. Its very useful requires only +5VDC for the supply input and an output pin connection for high or low logic control. Unofficial skyrim patch deutsch useful link. You may need to crack open the glue seam.

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3 Sound Activated Switch Circuits Explained

A basic sound operating switch can be constructed using an audio amplifier IC, a comparator, a timer operating in monostable mode, a relay and a load. Winaso registry optimizer keygen photoshop here. What if we do not want to hold the button switched closed to keep the LED on. News & blogs on NFL, MLB, NBA, NHL, MMA, college, NASCAR, fantasy sports and more.


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Sound sensitive lights w/ sound sensor & Arduino

The relay driver is composed of a power MOSFET transistor, a diode, and a relay. This video shows how to use KY-038 Sound Sensor using Arduino. This inverter has a little microphone and will light the connected EL according to the surrounding audio volume. It will deliver the fattest and warmest strings, pads, brasses and solos you've ever heard from a.


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Sound activated switch arduino. During the project, students become familiar with the components, code and logic to complete circuits and employ their imaginations to real-world applications of technology. Kerbal space program cracked games. KY-038 Small sound sensor acts sort of a microphone which detects sound signals.

Clap Switch with Arduino and Sound Sensor

Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits EL Wire 6V Sound Activated Pocket Inverter ID - A small, portable inverter for EL wire with an audio input! There's just something magical about going to the store, picking up a boxed game, staring at the amazing box art, bringing the game home and putting the disc in the drive. Core magix multi keygen mediafire. We're going to reproduce this device: learn how to make a sound activated switch which can be opened and closed with a double clap.


Pigeon Solution required.

We have Cisco C3850 running ipbase license recently we decided to run BGP protocol for that we need ipservices license. I soldered the Sound control. Consider a situation in a bank or any organization where a sudden invasion by the burglars has taken place. The first time that the clap is detected by the Arduino, an LED will be switched on. The second time that a clap is detected the LED will be switched off.

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Once this is working, a pleasant surprise may be that the push button code starts working. This is an easy and fun project for beginners and kids. It has a powerful processor, 10 NeoPixels, mini speaker, InfraRed receive and transmit, two buttons, a switch, 14 alligator clip pads, and lots of sensors: capacitive touch, IR proximity, temperature, light, motion and sound. That was not the case with earlier KMS-activated versions of Office.


Wireless sound device (50m) - before buy suggestions

I am planning to build a home-made sound mine/grenade to play with, and I was planning to use esp32, but I have a few questions before buying the materials, in case someone could suggest me a better direction.
The whole thing should fit in a small place. I am planning to use PVC joint as a container (piping, plumbing: https://www.onlinepoolstore.co.uk/ekmps/shops/poolsupplies/images/50mm-grey-pvc-plain-socket-union-5004-p.png sort of), so I will have less than 2.5x2.5x8cm empty volume to insert everything. Since it will have to support hits and throws, my only plan is to put shipping foam between the components and the container.
Then, I would like to use the most simple/cheap circuit and materials, since it won't make sense to spend more than 20€ in something than can cost that from China (my time does not count).
It is important to produce a loud noise (explosion), and I wanted to try using a speaker instead of a buzzer (I don't know how to produce a "realistic" explosion with those homophonic sounds). So, I thought about 3W speakers. Theoretically, if I use them I will get around 95dB? Maybe loud enough. So far I experimented with DFRobot MP3 Player, and it works although is not loud enough, but I don't have yet the 3W speakers so I don't know where the problem is. I would like to remove the MP3 Player component, since I want to reduce components/price (and SD card). I would like to reproduce a single sound (1-3s, since it is an explosion), and if I can, I will do it in memory. I am not sure which is the best amplifier (or if I can remove it) but I thought about LM386 since it is "loud, old and cheap" (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/SimpleAudioPlayer) It is important to sound really loud, if I could go up to 110dB would be great, but if it complicates the design a lot or cost much more, I should discard it.
The mine/grenade has to be controlled remotely. I could program different modes, but it should allow communicating up to 50m with my controller. First I thought about LoRa, but maybe it is overkill. Then I though about ESP-NOW/WiFi if it allows such ranges. Here is important to reduce costs but allow communicating without problems, and consuming not much energy.
I was planning to buy TTGO ESP32 T8 v1.7 boards, since they have the lipo v3.7 battery connector (max 500mA) and are around 6€ each, assuming I will use ESP-NOW for communicating. If another radio frequency should be used, I open to other boards (or adding other components).
Then, the energy requirements. Completely lost. Since the TTGO T8 requires around 250mA, I would have only another 250mA for my components... I don't know how much power will be needed by the speaker+amplifier+radio communication. Any suggestion? Also, I know that LiPo and impacts is not a good thing, but I assume the shipping foam will help here. If still is to risky, I accept another suggestions.
Approximate device workflow: - I load the battery, insert in the device, connect battery and close it. It goes in deep sleep to save energy and checks every Xs (eg. 8) if I want to pair it with my controller.
- When I know I would to use in the next 10-20 minutes, I "switch on" the device, connecting it and "pairing" (I will program this) with my controller. It keeps in sleep mode to save energy, but it is checking every second if I want to use it. So far the consumption should be really low.
- When I want to use it, I activate the device I want to use (eg. button) and do second pairing with the controller (another button). Then, the controller buttons will only trigger actions in this device. I throw the device 30-50m, and when I want during the next time (30s to 5min) I press the controller to fire it.
- When it is fired, it has to sound as loud as possible, a single explosion 1-3s. Then, it goes deep sleep since it cannot be used again (step 1 of this workflow). It will be great that the battery could support all this at least once, or even repeating the workflow a few times.
I can assume if once in a while, due to the impact against hard materials, some inner components suffer, being defective.
  • 4Ohm 3W Speaker: 2€
  • TTGO T8 1.7 board: 7€
  • Lipo v1.7 Battery 500mAh: 5€
  • Lm386: 0.5€
  • Wires, Shipping Plumbing union: 3€
If the ESP-NOW is not the best strategy and I would need LoRa, the board will go up to 17€... too expensive.
What will you change if you want to build this?
submitted by user-in-reddit to esp32

My First Build, an Idiot's Tale of Epic Proportions

Warning. To say this is a long post is like saying it's a long way to Alpha Centauri
First off, It's worthy of note that I started this project with zero knowledge on keyboards, save that they came in different shapes, and some had more expensive mechanical switches, rather than conductive dome over pcb thingies.
It's taken me longer than I would have liked to get this "write-up" done, but RL is doing a bit of a number on me at the moment. Anyway, enough bullshit...
Decision Time
So in my seemingly infinite naivety (more on that later), I decided that having put together a simrig/workstation, I needed a suitable keyboard. I've been having increasing issues with my upper spine and limbs since I did some renovation work on the house a few years ago and so part of the drive to make my own board was to make some sort of split, ergonomic effort. I looked at the Ergodox and it's variants, both in kit form, and pre-built, but decided that the Razer Tartarus I have wasnt that much more comfortable than a standard board, so looked deeper and found the Dactyl. Serious props to Matt Adereth and his unashamed nerdiness on the whole subject of keyboards. I rarely watch YouTube videos, but I found his talk on the how and why of the Dactyl project very informative and useful, as well as quite enjoyable. At this point, I was hooked. I followed the Dactyl subtunnel of this rabbit hole all the way to Carbonfet's fork of the Dactyl-Manuform code. This, I decided, was the one. Having never done anything even like building a keyboard, my brain had decided not just to make a Dactyl-Manuform, but to make the 5x7 variant. (For any normal, sane person not party to the intracies of the D-M, the 5x7 is the least manufactured of the possible types, largely due to the complexity of the print, and the sheer balls out awkwardness of the construction, as far as I can figure out.)
Already knowing that the sound of a mech' keyboard over Voip is about as welcome as a protein fart in an elevator, quiet switches were a must. Conversely the feeling of the click, the confirmation of the keypress, is something I feel is necessary to not "bottom out" too hard and cause impact problems at finger joint sites. After a lot of research and sifting through literally years of accrued arguments, all this added up to "tactile" switches. Not having a massive budget, and knowing full well where this project would lead, I opted to keep it simple and cheap (for now) and decided on Gateron Brown switches. Don't start. (Really, leave it alone. This is the Mk I :p)
I knew from the get go that some sort of lighting was a must, as I frequently use my machine in a darkened room, I game a lot, and I use a TrackIR. I'd toyed with the idea of single switch pcbs for a while, but decided that for this one, I was going to go balls to the wall, and fully hand wire it. If I was going to do this, I was going to learn every detail, all the whys and wherefores. (Ain't hindsight a wonderful thing). Having spent a few weeks researching, reading, and learning everything vaguely relevant to what I was doing, I finally had a tentative specification/parts list. A 3D printed Dactyl-Manuform 5x7, hand wired with Gateron Brown switches and single colour LEDs, powered by Arduino Pro Micro clones running QMK firmware.
All well and good, but that's a mountain of a task for an absolute rank amateur like myself. In a rare example of my childish naivety working in my favour, I began -undaunted- by carrying away small stones.
The openSCAD Saga
After having spent weeks meticulously planning what he thought was a bold, but easy score, our hapless cretin of a hero arrives at the start of the "real work"; obtain a workable set of files required to have the casing 3D printed. Sounds easy enough, there's step by step instructions and everything... Sorta. Alright, what the jumping monkey chuff is "Clojure"? A what now? Functional language? What does that even mean? (To this day, I still don't really know). Whatever, I can just follow instructions to set up a working environment, get a windows instal... wait... Alpha? Oh, cock. sigh Linux it is. Find some VM software (I went with Oracle VirtualBox) and install some Linux distro or other (Kubuntu in this case, for no particular reason other than I remeber preferring KDE years ago shrug). Install openSCAD, go back and install the Clojure cack and all it's dependencies, make sure it all works. Barring an easy way to access the files on my PC in the VM (for some reason, likely my own stupidity, I couldnt get it to mount any of my desktop drives) it works. Truly didnt see that coming. Take the wins where you can find 'em...
Next step, download the gumph from Github. Carbonfet's Version of the Dactyl-Manuform code, still in active development I might add. Still not quite certain how git works, and I'm very wary of breaking somebody's shit, or making more of an arse of myself than usual, so reticent to "play" with it. Whatever, not important, stay on track. Where was I? Right, put code on VM, realise I can't, not easily. Underp myself and open a browser in the VM and download the code in there. Follow more instructions in the readme to actually "run" the Clojure code, receive bacon .scad files. Ok, another win for the home team, it did something. :D While I still don't know what a functional language is, and I've no real idea how closure works, I've stuck my sausage fingers in enough code to be able to learn to "read" the code to a degree after a little bit of trial and error. It didn't hurt that the code is quite well commented either, much <3 to Carbonfet, l4u, tshort, and adereth for their hard work. When playing around and tweaking various parameters then rerunning the code to generate a new output, openSCAD will automatically watch for file changes and update when necessary if the file is open, which is handy. This allowed me to change something, run it, and watch what changed to get an understanding of what bits of code did what.
It all went downhill from there. It's worth taking a moment to again point out that I have no real idea what I'm doing here at this point. I don't own a 3D printer, I've never 3D printed anything, I've never design anything to be printed, hell, I scarcely knew how 3D printers even work. I had never seen or used any slicing software, never heard of meshmixer, knew of Blender only in passing and had a very basic grounding in Fusion 360. I thought I knew 3D printers ate STLs and shat plastic things, that was it. Oh boy, was I in for the rudest of awakenings.
I got to a stage where I was happy with how it looked in openSCAD, tenting and pitch angles how I wanted, screw holes and heat insert pillars correctly dimensioned and placed for the inserts I chose . I opted to use M3 machine screws to assemble it. Like most people that build their own PCs, I have hundreds of "floppy drive" screws dossing about the place and thought it about time they got some graft done. The procedure is then to "render" the result of the code in the .scad file in openSCAD itself, then export it as an STL. I did so, and sent it off to someone I knew who'd offered to print me stuff, let's call him "Mike" (not real name :p). Like I said, it all went downhill from there. The STL file had errors apparently. A lot of errors. "Non-manifold geometry", holes in places they shouldnt be, and odd ridges at the edges. Literally, thousands of errors. Well, shit. This wasn't covered in the readme. Some back and forth later, Mike had worked some arcane magic and cleaned up the model to be partially useable, but he still wasnt happy with it.
Now, I'm not sure if it's just me, but I'm uncomfortable with any "magic" fixes. When/if something breaks, or doesnt work as intended, I need to understand why, at least to a rudimentary degree, before can proceed to the "fixing". Automatic fixes and repairs are well and good, but without knowing what's going on, how can I predict what exactly they might do to a model? To better understand what I was doing, I installed the same toolchain Mike uses. I already had Fusion 360 set up, so I just needed "Meshmixer" and the Prusa Version of "Slic3r".
Maybe it's the complexity of the Dactyl-Manuform, maybe I'm just thick, but could I hell as like get Meshmixer to do anything useful besides highlight the errors in the model. I could zoom in and see the problems, but the tools were wholly unsuitable for the detailed manipulation I needed to do. I spent what must have totalled over 50 hours bouncing between Meshmixer, Google searches and Fusion, trying to figure out how to do something about the problem. Netfabb could apparently fix the errors, but it's methods left odd overhangs and "cracks" through what should have been solid, the end result was usually arguably worse than the input. Either way, the mesh we were left with was a 22+ hour print for each main casing, and Mike wasn't in for babysitting his printer for such long prints.
Ok, so now what? Well, I again weighed up the pros and cons of just building an ergodox or similar, as the frames would be easier to source or print. In the end, I once more decided that the Tartarus I had was just as uncomfortable for long term use, and so wouldnt be that much further forward if I half arsed my original intentions. No, bollocks to it, if I'm doing this, I'm doing it whole hog. I asked around friends, looking for someone, anyone, with a 3d printer that didn't mind running some long prints. I was pointed in the direction of Derek (another false name), who seemed more than happy to run the print, boasting about the complexity of some of the models he'd printed previously.
Meanwhile, I'd started again from scratch with the model after coming realising carbonfet had updated the Clojure code. I spent more frustrated days trying to learn what I needed to understand what was going wrong with the process, eventually coming to a partial understanding. Somewhere down the line, when exporting from openSCAD, numbers get rounded, and what should be one vertex ends up being split into 3 or more. If you've any understanding of 3d modelling, you can imagine the havoc that wreaks on the final mesh. Yeah, shitshow is about right.
By the time I'd figured this out, Derek had collected his printer but found it needed work and that was going to take an indeterminate amount of time. I'm 0/2 so far, for anyone keeping score :(. I was pretty much back at square one, though somewhat less ignorant of what I was asking of the printer, so not a waste of time, exactly. I will admit though, despite having the key switches, diodes, controllers (Pro Micros), LEDs, and all the other sundries required, I nearly gave up. Between not being able to have the casing printed, and not being able to produce a model I was happy with in the first place, my motivation took a serious hit.
Will it Blend?
While having a good piss and moan at the ever tolerant regulars of the DIY corner of the HOTAS discord about my situation, a voice piped up with an offer of help. I was renewed, my enthusiasm crept up again as I discussed with Jonathan (guess what?) how to bring the thing to reality. I began again, again.
Carbonfet had updated the code again, so I downloaded a fresh copy, and set to work. I picked through the clojure code, modifying the required parameters, previewing, modifying parameters, previewing, until I was happy with the angle and shape, locations and sizing of screw supports etc. Unfortunately, the export to STL went as well as previously. Badly, to be diplomatic about it. I was at a loss. If only, I thought, I could edit the vertices individually. I could manually repair the mesh so I could successfully import it into Fusion 360. Maybe...? some googling later... Blender. Of course, why didnt I think of this before. Man, I felt stupid. I installed Blender, watched a couple of "intro to Blender" videos, and then set to work...
Cut forward three days...
I had a fixed, "finished" model that Fusion could import without smearing itself in it's own waste and blowing bubbles in the corner, unresponsive. Finally! Only took about two and a half months of literal sweat and tears to get this far, but that fusion file stands testament to the progress smashing your face into a problem repeatedly can achieve. It had taken a bunch of back and forth with Jonathan, him testing models in his slicer and then eventually, printing a key-wide, columnar slice off one end as a print test.
From there, I designed a new bottom plate, as the shape of the footprint had changed during the process of repairing the geometry of the mesh, so the code generated one was incorrect. I mean, of course it was; I manipulated, combined, fucked with or dissolved down 7,819 vertices -by hand- to 5,922, bringing the total number of triangles from 15,896 to 11,988. I had to hand build some geometry, vertex by vertex to correct some of the dodgy export results around the thumb cluster too. Fixed a few spots where walls were a bit thin (Meshmixer made that info easy to see, though it can be done in Blender no doubt). That was the hard part done, thinks I. Fate it would seem, had other ideas.
A Short Rant On Being Fucked Around
Somewhere in amongst that struggle of tenacity vs technology, the actual hardware (minus casings, obvs.) had arrived. I sent files down to Jonathan of all varieties, trying to get the best possible results. That, it turned out later, was a childish mistake on my part...
I paid "Jonathan" a reasonable sum of money, to his "Home Business", (probably best I don't publicly name it here) to print something I'd spent months working on by this point. I discovered half way though the actual build detailed below that he'd then sold a print of it to someone else despite my explicit instructions not to. That really pissed me off. (I have concrete proof, there's no room for debate on if it happened. Just in case anyone decides they to play devils advocate, don't.)
I get that it's an open source based design, and at least morally, if not legally, my work should be open too. I just don't want my half baked, unfinished, prototype work out in the wild. I intend to improve upon this design to simplify the printing, as well as the construction of the board. I don't want someone I paid to do a job profiting from the months I spent fighting the design into Fusion 360 and claiming it as his own work to their "customers".
Annnnd relax.
Back to our regularly scheduled programming...
Things Get Real
While waiting for the print to be completed and sent up to me, I tested every switch and diode, soldered the two together, and then tested again. One, Five, Many
Once the casings arrived, (pic), the real fun could begin. The first job was to fit the switches, fettling the holes where required. (Pic). Then soldering the diode legs into rows (pic 1)(pic 2). Once that was done, I used enamelled copper wire to wire the columns (pic 1)(pic 2). At this point despite it looking nice, I have echo something I read while reading up on handwiring. Use very fine enamelled wire if that's the route you choose. I used 0.5mm and it took ramping the iron up to 380C to cook the enamel off. Needless to say, this utterly fubarred the already ancient and damaged tip of the iron. As it's an 18 year old Maplin's special, fuck only knows what spec the tips are, so I needed a new soldering station. Bollocks.
Once my new gear turned up, I could bash on. I added some cheap ribbon I had already lying around for the board to pcb interconnect. (pic) At that point, I soldered the headers to the pro micro boards and fettled the holders for them. I wired in the TRRS jacks used to connect the two halves using the same enamelled copper as the columns, and pinned them in place with a trimmed cable tie. (pic)
At this stage, I needed to know where to connect the headers I'd crimped onto the free ends of the ribbon cables. So, it was time to take a closer look at QMK. Luckily for my noob self, those clever little spuds that maintain QMK seem to know how to work around ignorance such as mine, and so, in short order I had a basic keymap set out in the online configurator app, and a short spinning chetty later, I had a firmware file, plus the source used to compile it. I needed the source immediately, as the switch matrix pin assignments I sought are stored within. Once the headers were connected appropriately, I slid the controller holders into place (pic) and screwed the baseplates on (A little optimistic, I admit). I ran the QMK toolbox program, used to upload firmware to the controllers, and promptly realised I had no way to reset the controllers into bootloader mode. Well, bugger. I quickly bodged up two headered cables to attach to the reset pin and ground that would be accessible without having to slide the holders out of place, so no twisted cables (those ribbons are fragile). There we go, reset and uploaded to each half, connect the primary (left) half back up to the PC and... it works! Test all the key.... Balls. Turns out the build I was using as a reference was wired differently at the thumb cluster. Not entirely surprising, given it was a smaller board, built a while ago. This meant that the four 1u thumb buttons were "mixed up". Making a note of which key on the thumb cluster did what, I went back and rewired the thumb switches so they'd work properly. ((I now know I could have avoided that work by changing the code end of things, but hey ho, them's the breaks)) Right, go back and test it again. It actually works! (pic) Yes, the keycaps are a hodgepodge, but right now I don't care, it actually works!
Ohhmm, What? / Let There Be Light
After a few days of playing around with the keymap, I decided it was time to try and tackle the LED backlighting. I had no idea what I was doing other than using 3mm amber LEDs I'd bought at the same time as the wiring and the diodes for the switch matrix. I knew I didnt need to use anything as complex as LED matrix controllers, so looked deeper at QMK's "Backlight" functionality. (Link)
Software wise, this was going to require an actual local compile of customised QMK code, rather than using the online configurator to generate the firmware, so I got that out of the way. Again, the quality of the documentation and community around QMK shone through, and setting up a working dev environment was as simple as following the given instructions. A short while later and I had tested the ensemble by compiling the source that made the working firmware the board was currently running and reuploading it. Success, first time... "Hmmm, that kind of luck doesn't last", I thought to myself.
So, to use the backlight functions of QMK you simply define a few flags appropriately in the relevant places (intentionally being nonspecific here, as the QMK docs are clear as crystal, and may change) to set desired options, things like number of brightness levels, max/default brightness, etc. The most important setting as far as I was concerned was which pin would output the signal to the LEDs. To use one of the controller's hardware timers, rather than a software timer, I had to rejig the existing switch matrix pins, but previous me had crimped headers on the connections for those rather than solder them, so that wasnt such a problem :D
I did still have one rather glaring problem, or rather, a would-be lack of glare. How in the name of cheesy dicks do I drive.. 34? LEDs (per half) from one controller pin that can feed 40mA or thereabouts before melting? Or all 68 from one 500mA USB port for that matter... Errr.... It has to be doable... I've seen it done. Alright, one more problem to solve, I've come this far. Skimming through google results looking for a lead, I found an old reddit post about something similar that suggested using the key matrix scan in combination with the PWM output from the controller.
The QMK code (by default) scans each column of keys one after another by pulling a column high and looking for a high row input. If it finds one, that means that row switch is pressed in that column. Since the code does this many, many times a second to give the impression of instant detection, it should be fast enough to look always on, to my slow mk. I eyeballs.
So, by taking a feed off each column into a transistor, I can switch on one column of LEDs at a time, quick enough fool the eye, without fragging the usb port. Now, by pulling the same stunt with the PWM output of the controller, and running the cathode end of the LED column through another transistor, triggered by the output of the PWM transistor, the pwm output is fed to all of the LEDs, but only one column has power at any given time. Mint!
After finding rougly suitable transistors to do the job (2N3904), I had all the information I needed to work out the voltages at various places, to work out the required resistors to limit the current correctly. For this, I needed help from the electronics gurus on the HOTAS discord as I had completely forgotten my basics. Having had my bacon saved again, I had this to work from.
Once the parts arrived, I could press on. Knowing I'vd have to solder a buttload of resistors, one to each LED and one to each Transistor, I coiled one leg of the required number of resistors. (pic) After that tedious and painful job was done, I started fixing LEDs into place. It was pretty simple, sliding them through a column at a time, taking care to have the long leg (or flat side of the casing) to the correct side. After slotting in a column, holding the LEDs in the a finger on each, I flipped the casing over and bent the LEDs legs apart a little to stop them falling out. With the resistors pre-prepared, it was as easy as dropping them over the correct leg, soldering it on, pushing the LED from the other side and resoldering, sliding the resistor all the way down the leg. This ensured a solid solder connection, while keeping the connection fairly small, and allowing me easily pin the LEDs firmly in place. All I had to do was do that about 70 times. :-/
Once the LEDs were in I used the unconnected legs of the resistors to make a rail, like is common with diode legs in a keyboard switch matrix. With this done in a particular way, there's a "spare" leg which I coiled like I did with the resistors eventually, to be used as one of the transistor connections to that column. For the other rail, the LED legs weren't long enough to do the same trick, and since the enamelled wire was such a pain in the arse, I used tinned wire and heatshrink to do the job instead. (pic)
For each column of LEDs, I have two transistors, one to supply power when the switch column is active, and one to sink the power according to the PWM output supplied by the LED backlight code in QMK via a pin of the controller. So, one transistor takes it's input (base) off the switch column, it's collector hooked to vcc, and it's emitter feeding the LED column +ve rail. The other transistor's base is connected to the controller (via another transistor, to avoid the risk of frying the controller), it's collector to the LED column -ve rail, emitter to ground. What this means is, as soon as you put the transistors in, rat's nest. (pic)
Having already sorted an environment to customise the QMK code, I made the required changes to set up the backlight and added some backlight control keys to my keymap. Once that was done I compiled the code and uploaded the firmware. Moment of truth.. Ohhhkaaaay, it works?!? I was genuinely stunned. Just like that, it works. Apparently that easy? Can't be.. I mean, the keycaps arent awesome with how I've mounted the switches (and thus the LEDs), but it does the job. Behold!
Going forward from here, I've ordered my own 3D printer so I can print my own casings. I'm sorta waiting for that to arrive so I can get familiar with it, get it "dialled in" and whatnot. At the same time, I'm trying to decide whether to go through the effort of recreating the whole Dactyl-Manuform model parametrically, purely in Fusion 360. Either way, the Mk. II will use a custom single switch PCBs, surface mount LEDs and crystal switches. The wiring gets simpler using mini PCBs, which means per key RGB LEDs become a halfway reasonable thing to do rather than a self induced stroke looking for somewhere to happen. SMD LEDs with transparent switches also produce a much "fuller" light under each switch, widening keycap options (which is a must with such a custom layout). I also have some ideas floating around for custom laser engraved keycaps, we'll see.
If anyone has questions, I'll do my best to answer them. Hopefully this will inspire others to give this sort of thing a go. If a muppet like me can get it done, you should be fine.
'Til next time <3
Edit: Gold? Thank you, kind redditor :D
submitted by cyberFluke to MechanicalKeyboards